Nick,

Do you use LC-13 any more, or have you switched over to T-14 for really deep-water situations?

John, I read the article by Nick and I have read lots about shooting heads on Dan Blanton’s site. I tried shooting heads 20 or more years ago. I was using Amnesia and I don’t remember anything about the heads but the rods were glass rods back then. I could really cast a lot of line but I did not have much application for shooting heads then. Now that seems to be changing. I am fishing the beaches in Cook Inlet trying to catch king salmon in the salt, I am bank fishing on the Kenai River more in the spring for big rainbows using long, black articulated leaches, and I am venturing to warmer saltwater destinations in the winter for roosterfish, tarpon, jacks, etc…

So, I am now thinking about shooting heads again. I have read about various running lines and Suflex is getting rave reviews. I’d like more info on types of shooting heads, and I’d like to see an easy to use reference chart on lengths of various types of heads for different weight lines.

I’ll send some photos in a few weeks when I return from Belize. :o) Phil

FISHEYE - 30 October 2007 03:33 PM

John, I read the article by Nick and I have read lots about shooting heads on Dan Blanton’s site. I tried shooting heads 20 or more years ago. I was using Amnesia and I don’t remember anything about the heads but the rods were glass rods back then. I could really cast a lot of line but I did not have much application for shooting heads then. Now that seems to be changing. I am fishing the beaches in Cook Inlet trying to catch king salmon in the salt, I am bank fishing on the Kenai River more in the spring for big rainbows using long, black articulated leaches, and I am venturing to warmer saltwater destinations in the winter for roosterfish, tarpon, jacks, etc…

So, I am now thinking about shooting heads again. I have read about various running lines and Suflex is getting rave reviews. I’d like more info on types of shooting heads, and I’d like to see an easy to use reference chart on lengths of various types of heads for different weight lines.

I’ll send some photos in a few weeks when I return from Belize. :o) Phil

Good Luck in Belize! Sounds like shooting heads would work well for the situations you described. Nick’s working on some additional topics related to SHs which we should get posted towards the end of November.

I keep wanting to try the Sufix mono that people have mentioned on Dan’s board, just no time to track it down. I’ve never been a big fan of Amnesia (black or red), I like the intermediate sinking shooting lines or braided mono better, even if it doesn’t cast quite as far.

I never had luck with Amnesia either. always seemed to coil and hang up when shooting through the guides. I used the red. I switched to a braided mono running line which was great but wear finger protection because it will chew through your index finger after a few hours of stripping. I have a slow sinking running line (looks like a skinny fly line) that I think is SA and it does well. I agree that having the color change between running and shooting helps with casting as you can see when you have the right amount out. I have to say though I have a few ‘combo’ lines (most SA Streamer Express of some sort) and these lines cast like rockets and the line holds very little shape. I was tossing my 11 and was just about shooting it to the backing (just shy of 100 or 110 feet)
I used one of my dad’s Teeny systems and was very impressed as well.

Drydocked - 20 October 2007 07:28 AM

Nick,

Do you use LC-13 any more, or have you switched over to T-14 for really deep-water situations?

I haven’t used LC-13 for probably the last three years. It was good stuff but the T-14 really gets the job done. Generally when I’m using a sinking line I want the fastest sink rate possible. Personally I don’t have much need for the more gradual sinking lines. If I want a slow sink rate I go to an intermediate. Bear in mind that compared to traditional sinkers and lures used on conventional and spinning tackle, even fly lines rated as extra fast sinking don’t go down all that fast. If I have a fast sinking line and the fish happen to be holding further up in the water column I just begin my retrieve sooner, maybe only seconds after the fly hits the surface. That way the fly hasn’t had a chance to plummet into the depths and I’m in their feeding zone. My approach is like wearing extra clothes for the cold. If it begins to warm you can always take some off. But if it gets colder and you didn’t bring enough, you’re going to be cold.

FISHEYE - 30 October 2007 03:33 PM

John, I read the article by Nick and I have read lots about shooting heads on Dan Blanton’s site. I tried shooting heads 20 or more years ago. I was using Amnesia and I don’t remember anything about the heads but the rods were glass rods back then. I could really cast a lot of line but I did not have much application for shooting heads then. Now that seems to be changing. I am fishing the beaches in Cook Inlet trying to catch king salmon in the salt, I am bank fishing on the Kenai River more in the spring for big rainbows using long, black articulated leaches, and I am venturing to warmer saltwater destinations in the winter for roosterfish, tarpon, jacks, etc…

So, I am now thinking about shooting heads again. I have read about various running lines and Suflex is getting rave reviews. I’d like more info on types of shooting heads, and I’d like to see an easy to use reference chart on lengths of various types of heads for different weight lines.

I’ll send some photos in a few weeks when I return from Belize. :o) Phil

Phil,

Regarding a chart on different length heads, for different weight lines-Why don’t you try and keep all the heads in the 27-foot range. I think you will find that this is the most user friendly length. On some ligher rods like 6 & 7-wts my lengths are a little shorter (approx 25-ft), but for most of my saltwater fishing I try and stay about 27-ft. True, this will involve some customizing effort on your part, but making up heads isn’t all that difficult-I actually like doing it, probably as much as I enjoy tying. Start with a little longer length of head (30-ft or more), put it on your rod and cast it. If it feels too heavy just cut it back in 1 -ft incremments until it feels right to you. Just be sure and mark everything so you know at a glance what line you have.
By the way many years ago on the Kenai I had a banner time on big Kings (50 lbs and better) on a 9 & 10 wt with leadcore shooting heads. A bunch of guys from Finland with spey rods couldn’t believe it. I was into fish constantly and I’m sure it was the head setup that accounted for my success.
I used heads two yrs ago in Belize for big tarpon and they worked extremely well-I also used floating and intermediate heads in the magroves for snook and found them more efficient than full lines.
Have a great trip!