Fishing:

Getting Started in BTB Fly Fishing - Part II: Getting Connected

Facts for Fly Fishers

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If you're an experienced fly fisherman, here are a few things to think about:

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"Test" versus "Class"

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One way to classify fishing line is by breaking strength. Most fishing line is classified by "test", which is the minimum breaking strength of the line. This makes sense, as you usually buy cordage (rope, string, etc.) to hold something, and you certainly wouldn't want the line to break at less than what you thought it should.

As a result "test" lines usually break at something significantly OVER the stated strength. For example, it is not unusual for 10 pound test monofilament to actually break at 12 or 13 pounds of tension (or more). This is especially common with lines made from materials which have poor knot strength (GSP / Spectra, for example)

On the other hand, world records are usually categorized by line "class". Line "class" is the maximum breaking strength of the line. This makes sense for world record purposes, because records are based on how hard it is to land the fish. The lighter the line class, the harder it is to land the fish. The International Game Fish Association has created various line classes that they recognize for world record purposes, and any record submissions are based on these categories. So "class" lines are certified to break at or BELOW the stated strength. Good class lines will always break at a tension very close to the labelled strength.

What does this mean to BTBFFing? If you think you might want to submit a record, you should make sure you know what class your leader material is. Note that you don't have to use IGFA certified class tippet material, you just have to know the actual breaking strength. For example, if you use 4lb TEST line for your tippet, it will probably break in the 6lb or 8lb CLASS.

The only way to know for sure is to test the line. You can do this yourself, or you can have a line sample tested by the IGFA. On the other hand, IGFA class leader material is now fairly common, so from our perspective, it's just easier to use the off-the-shelf stuff, and not worry about it.

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The "Weakest Link" Principle

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There are a lot of knots in a fly fishing rig. What knots do you need to use to make sure you get maximum strength from the various bits and pieces that make up a fly outfit?

The answer is: For the average BTBFF fisherman, it mostly doesn't make a difference!

Here's why:

When selecting the components of a fly fishing outfit, you should have selected backing that tests far in excess of the heaviest leader tippet you'll use. The fly line, leader butt section and shock tippet (if you use them) will also test out well above the maximum tippet strength you'll normally use (if you use IGFA line classes as a guide).

Most decent knots test at 85% or more of the breaking strength of the line. Since the leader tippet is the weakest link in the whole setup, as long as the other components break at something greater than the tippet, it doesn't make any difference (from a strength perspective) what knots you use to connect things.

Of course, there are other reasons for selecting certain types of knots - how easy they are to disconnect, how easily they pass through guides, how easy they are to tie consistently, etc. But as far as knot strength goes, the only two really critical connections are the ones at either end of the the tippet (the "weakest link").

That's why many people add a Bimini or other 100% double line knot on the ends of the tippet. Even if you tie a 60% knot in the doubled line, the connection will still be 120% of the strength of the base tippet material.

So...as mentioned in the "Note for Newbies" section - don't overwork the problem. Learn to tie a few good knots consistently well, and be done with it. On the other hand, if you are comfortable with the various knots mentioned, go ahead and use them! There's certainly no harm in having a stronger system.

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Does Getting Looped Make Sense?

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If you think you might need to change out a fly line or leader section fairly often, you should consider using some sort of loop-to-loop connection. A good loop-to-loop square knot connection is strong, and passes through guides easily.

In general, most experienced salt water fly fishermen have a loop-to-loop connection in the leader somewhere, whether it is to change out the entire leader, or just the tippet. Many people pre-tie leader tippets in advance, and add loops to both ends. The tippets are linked using loop-to-loop connections, then wrapped onto a empty leader spool. When needed, a pre-tied tippet is unrolled from the spool, unlooped from the other tippets, then looped onto the leader butt or fly line loop. It saves time, and reduces the chance of a poorly tied knot done in haste in the field.

If you're interested, see Dan Blanton's excellent website article Dan Blanton's excellent website article: "Getting Looped" for more information.