Tying notes

• Nothing in this pattern is considered to be absolute. Many alternative materials can be substituted.
  
  
• The fly can be made any color, or combination of colors that you like. I have found that flies that incorporate shades of orange, red, brown, and greens seem to be consistently effective around the kelp. Don’t overlook white, red, and yellow however.
  
  
• I like my flies to be durable. On this pattern I apply flexcement at every tying step. For the tail, body, and chenille head I apply the flexcement to the thread base before tying in and wrapping the material.
  
  
• Overall length of the fly should be around 4” to 6”, although it can be tied smaller and larger. Be sure to change hook size as necessary. A 3” version can be productive for spotted bay bass.
  
  
• The eyes should be large and heavy. I use 1/10 ounce lead dumbbell eyes. You want this fly to drop vertically quickly, yet be still be castable. I have even used 1/8 ounce lead eyes. Spirit River’s I-Balz or tungsten dumbbell eyes are effective substitutes for lead.
  
  
• The single leg wire snag guard is easy to install on the 60° jig hook, is fairly durable, and easy to bend back into position. While not completely snag proof, the fly can be worked through kelp with a much lower chance of snagging.
  
  
• The flash material is not meant to be a dominant feature of this pattern. Use just enough to provide some highlights. I will use fewer strands of a bright flash color such as gold and more strands of darker colors such as bronze.
  
  
• For a variant, use saddle hackle, either curved in or splayed out, in place of zonker strip for the tail.
  
  
• Two to four flies typically can be produced from a single spinnerbait skirt. I usually mix strands from multiple skirts to create a multi colored skirt. Silicone skirt material can be purchased in bulk from vendors such as Barlow’s Tackle Express and Jann’s Netcraft that cater to do-it-yourself lure makers.